Clinton Cawood unearths the Suffering Bastard - a classic from the catacombs.
Joe Scialom had an interesting life. The trained chemist worked as a bartender at the Shepheard’s Hotel in Cairo during World War II, was later imprisoned before being exiled from the country, and went on to a bartending career that spanned Puerto Rico, Cuba and beyond.
But when it comes to cocktails, Scialom is best remembered for The Suffering Bastard, said to have been created in 1942 as a hangover remedy. It proved so effective, the story goes, that British troops would telegram with requests for it from the front lines, with large quantities being duly delivered.
Beyond its role in the war effort, and its colourful, sometimes-controversial name – it was rebranded the Suffering Bar Steward for a time – The Suffering Bastard is noteworthy for its unconventional split base, combining gin with either brandy or bourbon.
It’s also, with its Egyptian birthplace, one of the few classics with its origins in Africa. To confuse matters, there’s a tiki classic by the same name, but with little else in common.
Chicago’s Violet Hour recently featured The Suffering Bastard, bringing the classic to the modern era with barrel-aged gin and a smoked pineapple eau-de-vie.
THE SUFFERING BASTARD (AS SERVED AT THE VIOLET HOUR, CHICAGO)
• 60ml Tom Cat Gin
• 60ml Matchbook Ritual Sister Pineapple
• 45ml lime
• 30ml Ginger
• 15ml spiced demerara syrup
• 1 dash Angostura bitters
Method: Combine all ingredients into a shaker and shake with ice. Pour over fresh ice in a glass of your choosing and garnish with a lime wheel and a pineapple frond.